How I Set Up My Xtool F1 Ultra to Cut Metal (And What I Wish I Knew First)

I manage equipment purchasing for a mid-sized prototyping shop. When the team asked for a laser that could handle both metal engraving and wood cutting, I started researching. After weeks of comparing specs and talking to vendors, we went with the xTool F1 Ultra. Here’s the setup process I followed—seven steps, from unboxing to first cut on steel.

Why This Checklist? (And Who It’s For)

This is for anyone who just got an F1 Ultra, or is considering one, and needs to move from “spec sheet” to “actual cutting.” I’m not a laser engineer. I’m the person who has to make sure this thing works for a team of designers and fabricators without becoming a project itself. If you’re in a similar role—procurement, shop manager, small business owner—this is for you.

Step 1: Unboxing and Initial Inspection

This sounds obvious, but I made mistakes here. The F1 Ultra is heavier than it looks—about 30 lbs. Clear a workspace before you open the box. I didn’t, and ended up balancing it on a corner of my desk. Not great.

What to check:

• Machine body and lid align properly. No wobbles.
• The rotary attachment is present and spins freely.
• Air assist nozzle is installed and connected (it should be, but double-check).
• Power cord and USB cable are both included. (I lost a day because I assumed it came with a USB-C. It’s USB-A to USB-C on the machine side.)

Step 2: Understanding the Laser Wavelengths (This Matters for Metal)

The F1 Ultra has two lasers: a 20W fiber laser and a 10W diode laser. The fiber laser (1064 nm wavelength) is what cuts and engraves metals. The diode laser handles organics—wood, leather, acrylic. The machine switches between them, but you have to set the right source for the right job.

If I remember correctly, the fiber laser wavelength is about 1064 nm. The diode is in the 445-455 nm range. Why does this matter? Because if you try to cut wood with the fiber laser, you’ll get a burn mark and a very slow cut. If you try to engrave stainless steel with the diode, nothing will happen. Period.

My rule of thumb: Fiber for anything metallic. Diode for everything else.

Step 3: Focusing the Laser

The F1 Ultra uses a manual focus. There’s a focus block included. I ignored it the first time. Don’t.

For the fiber laser, the focus height is about 190 mm from the lens to the material. The focus block helps you set this. Place it on the material, lower the laser head until it touches the top of the block. Remove the block. You’re set.

For the diode laser, the focus is fixed. The machine calibrates it when you close the lid. I still check it manually by doing a small test square on a piece of scrap wood. (Should mention: I keep a stack of wooden coasters for this purpose.)

Step 4: Configuring the Software (LightBurn Settings)

The F1 Ultra works with LightBurn. You must set the correct device profile. If you don’t, it won’t detect the laser. I learned this the hard way: spent an hour troubleshooting, only to realize I had selected the wrong output provider.

LightBurn setup for F1 Ultra:

• Go to Devices → Add Device.
• Select xtool F1 Ultra from the list. (Not the F1, not the F1 Pro. The Ultra.)
• Set the work area to 110x110 mm for the fiber laser. The diode laser uses the full 110x115 mm area.
• Set the origin at the front-left corner. This matches the machine’s home position.

I’m somewhat skeptical of automatic device detection. Manually selecting the profile took less than a minute and worked perfectly.

Step 5: Parameters for Cutting Metal (My Test Run)

Our first real job was engraving a serial number onto a steel bracket. The team needed it done in-house. Here’s what worked on 1mm mild steel with the fiber laser:

• Speed: 1000 mm/min
• Power: 90%
• Frequency: 60 kHz
• Passes: 1 (for deep engraving, 3-4 passes at 500 mm/min)

Note: These parameters are specific to a single test. Your mileage will vary based on material thickness, alloy, and surface finish.

The first pass left a faint mark. After three passes, it was clearly legible. The part was hot when it came out—let it cool before handling. (I forgot this. The bracket was warm for about two minutes.)

Step 6: Engraving on Gold (Surprisingly Easy)

We had a client request for gold-plated brass nameplates. I was nervous. Gold is soft and expensive. Here’s the approach:

• Use the fiber laser.
• Set slower speed (800 mm/min) and lower power (70%). Gold doesn’t need much to mark.
• Use a single pass. Two passes will start to remove the gold layer.

Results: crisp, dark marking on the gold surface. The client was happy. (Oh, and I should add: test on a scrap piece first. Even if you’re confident. We have a box of “oops” practice pieces for a reason.)

Step 7: Wood Engraving with the Diode Laser

This is where the F1 Ultra shines as a wood engraver. For a recent project, we did custom logos on oak coasters. Settings:

• Laser: Diode (10W)
• Speed: 3000 mm/min
• Power: 85%
• DPI: 300
• Passes: 1

The engraving came out dark and clean. No scorching around the edges. The air assist helps here—it blows away smoke and debris during the cut, which prevents burn marks.

Common Mistakes I Made (So You Don’t Have To)

1. Forgetting to switch laser source: I once spent 20 minutes trying to cut wood with the fiber laser. Nothing happened. Felt pretty dumb when I realized.
2. Incorrect focus height: If your engraving looks fuzzy or inconsistent, check the focus. Even a 1mm difference changes results drastically.
3. Skipping the test pattern: Always run a small test before the main job. It takes 30 seconds and saves you from scrapping expensive material.

This was accurate as of my experience in early 2025. The laser market changes fast, and firmware updates might affect settings. Verify current parameters with xTool support or community forums before production runs.

Setting up the xTool F1 Ultra to cut metal isn’t complicated, but it rewards deliberate setup. Miss a step? You’ll waste time or material. Follow this checklist? You’ll get from box to first product in an afternoon. Done.